The homeowner explained that they have a critter problem in their attic and that mice have made a mess inside the attic with droppings and urine. When the weather would warm up you could smell a foul odor coming from the attic hatch inside the closet of her son's bedroom. They are also experiencing mouse droppings in the basement around the perimeter of the basement floor. The symptoms of the problem was mouse dropping all over the insulation on the attic floor along with the smell of urine in the attic. When the attic would warm up the smell would permeate with mouse droppings and they wouldn't let their kids go downstairs because of it. The problem was caused by access points in the attic where the flashing against the gable walls was separated allowing mice to easily enter the attic. Holes were also present in the rim joist around the piping of the outside that allowed mice to get into the basement and nest in the fiberglass batt. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because the smell of urine would get really strong on warm days in her son's bedroom and she wouldn't want him to stay in the room. They also wanted to be able to utilize the basement and finish it but they didn't want to do that if mice were still able to get inside the home. The homeowners biggest concern with the problem was the odor that was coming into her son's bedroom.

  The homeowner chose our company because she was referred to us by one of her close friends who also had our company come out and remediate animal droppings and reinsulate the attic and was told how great and professional work we did and that they haven't had an issue since we corrected it. Our solution was to remove all of the fiberglass batt insulation from the attic floor, Vacuum the entire floor to get rid of all the mice droppings and start with a clean surface. We then treated the entire attic with a disinfectant to clean and remove the odor of urine. We closed the gaps in the flashing with screws and then sealed the flashing along the gable wall with a roofing caulk. We covered all of the open drop soffits inside of the attic with OSB and sealed them with ZypFoam. We sealed the chimney chase flashing with a caulk and wrapped the metal chimney with rock wool for fire safety. We created insulation dams with foam board in front of the front porch overhang and around the hatch opening to ensure the insulation would not taper off and stay at a consistent R-value. We installed all new duel wide rafter vents (baffles) and then air sealed all of the top plates, bond plates, wire and pipe penetrations and then insulate the attic floor with cellulose to a depth of 14" or to R49. We then went into the basement and removed all of the fiberglass batt insulation from inside the rim joist and vacuumed the rim joist and perimeter of the basement to clean any remaining mice droppings. We then air sealed and insulated the rim joist with 2 part spray foam. Some of the challenges that we faced during the installation process were;  The vaulted ceiling made it difficult to remove the existing baffles and fiberglass batt from the eave. One of the technicians had fallen ill and was not able to work on the job making it more work for two guys on a three man job. We used a combination of products to achieve our solution. We used Mold X2 products for disinfection. Roofing caulk and screws for sealing flashing on gable walls, 7/16" OSB for covering the ceiling drop soffits, metal flashing, fire caulk, metal wire, Ez roll rock wool sleeve, 1/2" Foam board, SilverGlo, weather-stripping, adhesive, DuroVent rafter vents (4'x22" and 6'x22"), 14" TruSoft Cellulose or R49 Zyp Kit 2 Part Foam Kit, 205 board ft. The homeowner now has a healthy clean attic that has been insulated to an Energy Star Rating of R49 and all of the gaps that were allowing pests to enter the attic have been closed off. The rim joist in the basement has also been sealed with 2 Part Spray Foam providing superior insulation then the pre existing fiberglass batt as well as preventing unconditioned air from leaking into the home via Stack Effect, as well as closing any penetrations the mice have been getting in.

   The homeowner had his roof replaced on October 18th, 2021 and had continuous soffit vents installed under his eaves shortly after and nothing wrong was brought to his attention. He then had his bathroom fan removed and replaced and the install noticed that he had mold growth all over his attic roof sheathing. The homeowner had also mentioned that his upstairs was always cold in the winter and hot during the summer. Mold growth and dark staining was present on 100% of the roof sheathing in the attic. The roofing nails had moisture dripping off of the tips. The upstairs temperature was always between 5 and 10 degrees warmer and colder than downstairs depending on the season. The problem were caused by the fiberglass batt insulation blocking all of the intake soffit vents without any baffles being installed. A lack of insulation on the attic floor was also causing heat from inside the attic to radiate down to the conditioned space during the summer and warm air from inside the home to radiate up to the attic during the winter. The attic contained one layer of R19 fiberglass batt insulation. The homeowner chose to have the problem fixed because he just spent all this money to have his new roof shingles installed and new ventilation installed under the eaves to still have the same problem he started with and not be flagged as a concern or corrected by either of the companies. His wife also could not stand the temperature difference upstairs and was always uncomfortable sleeping in their bedroom. The homeowner's biggest concern with the problem was that his attic was full of mold and that all the money he spent to have his roof re-shingled would be a complete waste if the mold was going to eat away at his roof deck and it would need to be replaced again.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to build a solid trust with our solution that would fix the problems that he was experiencing with making sure the mold growth would not return after correcting the ventilation. We also supplied a solution that would save him money correcting the ventilation. We also supplied a solution that would save him money on his energy costs while also providing a comfortable upstairs yearound. Our solution was to remove all of the fiberglass batt insulation on the attic floor in order to expose the leaks in the attic floor so they could be sealed (Top plates, Bond plates, Wire penetrations, Pipe penetrations ect.). We then removed the mold from the attic sheathing and trusses to give the homeowner a healthy clean attic. We installed a can light cover over a single recessed light. We air sealed and insulated the hatch cover and then insulated the attic floor with cellulose insulation to R60. Building the insulation dam around the whole house fan was a bit challenging as it had been made out of cardboard at first and then the insulation was installed making it difficult to build the new one out of foam board insulation. We used MoldX2 products to remediate the mold, DuroVent baffles, SilverGlo foam board, Weather-stripping, TiteShell Recessed Light Fixture Cover, ZypFoam and TruSoft Cellulose. The homeowner now has a healthy clean attic that is breathing properly and is no longer uncomfortable during the winter or summer months. The temperature upstairs is now the same as it is downstairs and his HVAC is coming on much less often. 

Insulation Installation and Home Comfort

Are areas in your home freezing cold in the winter and super-hot in the summer? Or just looking to improve your homes energy efficiency and comfort? the attic should be at the top of your priority list. Insulation and air sealing in the attic have a dramatic effect on the home's overall energy performance, and upgrades in this area can lead to significant savings on heating and cooling costs. 

Most homes in Michigan have R-30 (just under 10 inches) which was the previous code. With increasing to the current code of R-49 (approx. 15 inches) our homeowners experience significant savings on their heating bills and savings on their electric bills during the summer months when air conditioning is used. Think of your home like a large bag surrounding your living environment. If you turn your furnace or air conditioning off how long will the hot or cold air stay within your home? The more thermal barrier to the outside environment you have the less your equipment will run saving you money and increasing comfort

How the attic impacts home comfort

Cellulose insulation can be installed over existing insulation without interfering with your storage area

About 50% of energy costs are typically attributed to heating and cooling, making it one of the biggest expenses for many homeowners. The attic has a major impact on home efficiency for several reasons:

• Air leaks and drafts between attic and living space
• Air leaks and drafts between attic and outdoors
• Poor or incorrect ventilation
• Insufficient attic insulation
• Uninsulated ductwork in the attic

Best methods for improving attic efficiency

Air sealing: The first step to improving attic efficiency is air sealing. Your attic is full of gaps and cracks that allows conditioned air to escape from the living space into the attic and unconditioned air to enter from the outside. Sealing these air leaks helps to keep your attic isolated from the outside and keeps conditioned air inside your home.

Attic insulation: Many attics are lacking proper insulation, which is one of the biggest causes of energy waste and uncomfortable rooms. Raising attic insulation to proper levels prevents heat transfer between the attic and the living space, meaning your HVAC system will run less because conditioned air is being contained in the areas you want to heat and cool.

Ductwork services: If you have ducts in your attic, they are affected by the extreme hot and cold temperatures that occur in that space. When you try to send cold air through hot ducts or vice versa, the air in the ducts is heated in summer (and cooled in the winter), making it difficult to heat or cool your home. Having ducts in attics is extremely inefficient, which is why duct sealing and duct insulation are smart upgrades for homeowners with ductwork in the attic.

  The homeowner had just purchased the home and during the inspection, mold was found on the roof sheathing being caused by bath fans that were exhausting into the attic space. She had noticed that the home was warm during the summer when she had purchased the home despite the HVAC running.

  The homeowner chose our company because we were able to deliver a proposal and solution at the time of the inspection that would improve the health of the attic along with the energy efficiency of the home that would make the rooms warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer upstairs while reducing the amount of time the HVAC would be active. Our solution was to increase the ventilation in the attic by installing baffles after removing the insulation covering the soffits allowing the soffits to breathe that were previously blocked with existing insulation.  We then treated the attic with Mold X2 products and then got the current R19 insulation on the attic floor to a much more comfortable and energy-efficient R60.

  The products we used were Mold X2 to remediate the mold. Durovent duel baffles were placed into the eaves. SilverGlo expanded polystyrene foam board, to insulate the scuttle and weather stripping to seal the scuttle.  We blow in TruSoft Stabilized Cellulose Insulation to the resistance of R60. The homeowner now has a healthy attic free of fungal contamination and a more comfortable energy-efficient home. Her HVAC is running less to keep up with the warm/cool air loss previously lost to the lack of a proper thermal boundary between the attic floor and the conditioned space below.